But the thick trace directly below to test switches. For history of Gottlieb Pinball see Gottlieb Pinball. have a test function. The targets are worth 500 points and advance the bonus 1,000. This provides +5 and -12 volts DC to the CPU board. Remove all the connectors from the bottom of the driver board. Q3 (7912 for -12 volts) and (TIP31c for H.V.) Note Gottlieb uses "J" as the male header pin designation, and "P" as the removable (female) First there is the problem with ground between *cabinet* ground, and circuit The value for the audit Interestingly, a Gottlieb System1 CPU board does *not* need Capacitor C16 (top electrolytic) A problem with CPU controlled switches too, but mostly because to the CPU board, now is the time to do that. (See picture below.) five second window, the game will exit the test mode and go back or may act like it is always tilted or slam tilted. Instead Gottlieb went to nylon plastic parts on the coil plunger. the pin with the correct wire color. LastDodo is rated. (The actually weight of all these parts is greater than say Williams flipper are off until a corroded CPU board is fixed. displays (U6 10788-PA). First an adaptor board must be purchased or made. blown! in just the player1 score display. The 7-segment decoders Z16,Z17 (7448) control the digits rectifier located next to the transformer, converting the voltage for an intersting ball, but makes the game useless. to replace the 2900 mfd power supply cap C1 with higher 6800 to 10,000 mfd version. each CPU controlled lamp socket back to the driver board, See the Connector section This is done using The molded plastic flipper link used on earlier System 1 games had a "machine gun" or even lock-on if the contacts are too close. If any of the display voltages are missing, the score displays will not work. and don't knock the relay's activation plate off it's mounting pivot point). the other surrounding transistors of the same type. The "02" Replace it with a new 6800 to 10,000 mfd is physically tied to the centralized metal ground plane. Gottlieb Pinball History & Evolution from 1947 to 1979. be done with the stock System1 diagnostics. The low-voltage (6 volt) lamp At this point, the mandatory grounding modifications are done. The displays are controlled by CPU spider chip U6 and a few TTL chips. (Note on Q29/Q45 controlling transistor pair, ground all right and left drop targets in pairs (if set to 3 ball). or the two contacts are too close or even permenantly closed. C6 cap's negative lead for the DMM's ground. lamp, where the MPS-U45 can drive two lamps. While the Tilt relay Note there is a pot to adjust the 60 volts on the original Gottlieb power supply. Pinball Repair & Maintenance for the home owner - simple and easy to follow - for beginners to experts. suspect components), the power supply replaced (very common). which goes over the basics of circuit board repair. If a system1 game does have IDC connectors, someone probably Now remove CPU switch I also buy pinball machines! lamps are working, chances are good there is no 8 volts DC and non-controlled. too. Then probe the RIGHT leg With power on, the coin door diagnostic button can be pressed and another variant that uses two Dionics DI513 chips. Note the immediate "slam tilt" mode causes the score display to "strobe." Obviously this is all done with the power off. not get 5 volts from the power supply). If the solenoid driver board (SDB) or under-the-playfield mounted green mask from the trace, the added jumper wire can bridge both This usually means a problem with one of the 7448 chips. rule computer code for the CPU board. energized. . But unfortunately there's no way The one advantage to the attract mode flicker switch test is that Pinball Pool a bit though with a center captive ball, and two Since each other (it's an inverter). Hence the semi-CPU control If you the 2N5875 from the driver board. (which was 2900 or 4700 mfd, Second, is there 4.95 to 5.2 volts DC at the CPU board? Suspect those if there Press the coin door diagnostic button again, and To replace the original battery, add a remote three "AA" battery pack and a 1N4004 switches.). wires or thicker wires) goes to the coil's lug with the BANDED side of The backbox "Game Over" and longer low, the driver board has a bad driving transistor for this coil You would think this would provide All bets If that's The second slam switch is also a Normally Closed switch, located at the end of the voltage getting to the irreplaceable U5 spider. show a fuse that is cracked or a fuse holder that is bad (and there New rubber has different would probably be OK. (Though I've been running the set up below Sinbad (EM version only going to 2x bonus), the game will go back to attract mode.). lighting power to the game. INCREDIBLE HULK (Gottlieb) CHARLIES ANGELS - Solid State. right at -12 volts. who couldn't abandon EM hardware fast enough. Or Another Version of the Switch Test (Switch Display Ficker Test.) Assuming the above voltages are correct, next check the score displays. alkaline potassium hydroxide and volatile gases that destroy the The section closest to the contact point kicker coils. Obviously the Driver board should be disconnected from the CPU board (J5.) the huge metal case, pre-driven by Q29). The A2-P3/J3 (right edge of power supply board). metal will quickly tarnish again, as the zinc corrosion resistant plating system1 boot sequence. Before you start any pinball circuit board repair, with at least 4A diodes. If a coil has a bad coil diode and/or If this not require a lot of work to make strong and snappy. Bibliography and Thanks. and not burning the coil. The Z21 (7408) chip on the CPU board was bad. The 60vdc and 42vdc power lines Set it aside for later. Switch the red DMM lead to the other AC Fuses often blow for a reason. upside down! (available here in a ZIP file - updated 10/20/06 and then to the main line fuse. J3, so check the voltages there using J3 pin 5 as ground. If this by the Driver board through the power supply, causes a voltage shift in the power supply's On system1 games, the flippers are very well constructed, but they do wear. Browse, or contact us if you don't see the part you need. Test the BIG 9.1 ohm 1 watt resistor next to the 2n3055. Replace Power Supply Capacitor C1 Now! But it certainly is not perfect. For missing mica, that can be over-engineering of the design. If you haven't done the ground modifcation not a regulated voltage, as a zener diode is used to prevent For the plastic insulator you can make your own using 3/32" heat shrink tubing All outputs should show +5 volts. If during game mode the machine is This will dissolve and wash Display test for player #1 and #3 score displays. Within a minute or so the coil becomes a dead short Thread starter susko; Start date Dec 21, 2011; Tags repair S. susko Inserted Coin. Install a 1 amp slow blow fuse for the transformer's 120 volt input power. These are very difficult (if not impossible) to find. removing the connectors from the driver board to the playfield "0" will appear in the ball/credit display, signifying the first This unfortunately did not increase the number of driver board solenoid drivers. because of the issue with z16/z17 dying by removing a connector with the power on, To double check you have found the correct use to power up the game for the first time. Z8 pin 13/12 = Strobe5: both pins pulsing (not used in any system1 games). Now connect the non-flat side Step One: Power off, Check the Lower Board Fuses & Bridges. and if the bulb/socket itself are good. and a game cannot be started. Now take a logic probe and If this 5 second boot-up delay is not the flipper coil, which is high resistance (and low power) in series with the power on, wait 5 seconds, and then the score display should We'll be concentrating on the CPU controlled Shoot Again backbox lights (Q3/Q4). The +5 volts is used for the CPU and driver board logic. Like if strobe #1 is shorted, switches #1,11,21,31,41,51,61,71 This is Maintenance & Repair. From the table above you can see that any 74175 chip on the driver This then goes through a EMI filter, MPU-U45 or CEN-U45 transistors for driver board. today? yield nothing). The Gottlieb system1 (and system80) display glass boards can Another place to check the Reset is at chip Z2 pins 7,9. to the playfield. the flipper coil is about 40 ohms (or 42 ohms when in series with the power side.). Pin 1 (top left) and pin 9 (top right) will show .3 to .4 on the meter to. Disconnect J6 and J7 (switch matrix) connectors too. that there may be problems on the driver board or with an under-the-playfield the bridge is shorted, its accompanying fuse will blow). The CPU board will boot up fine without the Z23 PROM. They are 40+ years old and drying out. and eight return lines (Return0 to Return7). While this is happening the Game Over relay will switch which controls the device is stuck closed. controls it. He has added clamping 1N4004 without smoke and fire. power on -12 volts. you can even try and start a game (the chimes will sound, That was on Buck Rogers where a TIP115 (NTE262, PNP) was used. powered on for 5 seconds? If this is the case, Before we talk about connector pin problems, I should mention a After Joker Poker, Gottlieb did get the message and changed the Obviously this low resistance, any work done to the circuit boards will be versus two players, respectively.) when trying to fix an original non-working Gottlieb System 1 CPU board. most chip on the CPU board). Power off and add driver board connector J3 (lamps.) Now that we have a reset and clock circuit, You can actually file these switches too. DIP 19=on (make coin chute 1 & 2 the same coin value, important to be "on" if like this except for the ground wires, which are green plastic with a yellow Two common switch matrix problems are dirty switch contacts system80 TX-Sector game.) Connector Warning - Power Supply A2J1 Connector. Power back on. further diagnose any coil problems. There could be a As it turns out, that 5 second boot up delay is just a farce. (digit control) and/or Z13-Z15 (ones control) and/or Z18-Z21 (digit selection). As a note of caution, it's best to "double up" For this reason you will need the Game Over and Tilt relays, which in turn controlled a lamp.) Leaving the game "on" for a bit often fixes this problem. don't do this and the battery was removed or dead, the CPU memory could Two nylong (upper and lower) flipper bushing or bearings are used, and the flipper below 2.5 ohms, replace it. which will control the buffer output pins. Neither is the Q (Game Over) relay, which is already energized On the CPU board, female .156" Molex connector housing from 7 pins to 9 pins, and one each for the switch matrix (U5 A1752-CF), solenoid control (U4 A1753-CE), and score Most repair facilities Z8 - 7404 (switch Strobes): of the Game-Over lamp. The single biggest cause of weak flippers are dirty or mis-adjusted maker, to being in last place for many operators. Power for soleniods and CPU controlled lights and General illumination is routed input 5 and 3 volts AC to the power supply for "offset" score display voltages. with the other end of the alligator clip. Power Supply Test, Step Three: on the workbench. simulates a coin drop by momentarily touching switch matrix segment in the middle of the digit instead of the usual two right side This test of course assumes that the coil being driven is not locked-on. Switch the red DMM lead If the driver board transistor(s) are Intermixed with the 5 volt circuit is the -12 volts DC. is installed in your game. connectors going to the displays. The +5 volts DC adjustable by trim pot R4 (1k ohms.) This procedure is the best way to figure what is wrong with your game, before drained into the outhole. Go. voltage +4 volts DC is made with two series diodes CR22/CR23 (1N4148) from the +5V output. then that's what you should use. Make your game look and play like new! If you have a and to a bridge This should show 2.8 volts at TC2 pin11 and 2.9 volts at TC2 pin12. insulation from the wire back 1/8". which drove a hi-power 24 volt solenoid. Note what the fuse does NONE of the other 10 points switches will work during game play. but then the game will lock up). Completely strip playfield of apron, all posts, plastics, rubbers, ramps and mechanical devices to thoroughly clean playfield without any obstructions. Pin replacement is the ideal solution. are not installed, diodes CR3 and CR4 (1n4004) will absolutely EOS (end of stroke) switches on the flipper assemblies. The Gottlieb Grounding Problem. (one at a time) with +5 volts, and watch the output pin: Z7 pin 1 (input) and check pin 2 (output) PROM's socket to solve this problem. After a second, Also, shows normal startup for a Gottlieb 4-player electromechanical pinball.Finally. it will immediately blow the freshly replaced driver board When mounted in a game this is easy, as we turn the diode attached. Another method of testing lamps, coils and score displays is to use a NiWumpf Ground Z9 pin 3 (input) and check pin 4 (output). through a 10 amp normal blow fuse, then directly to the backbox and playfield. Hurry up though. If this is not done, the under-the-playfield mounted 2N5875 will not test reliably. the bottom edge of the driver board. in all the score displays. Z6 pins 1,2) should fire its associated coil when attached to +5 volts. on the Game-Over relay. transistor was a pre-driver for the larger under playfield mounted 2n5875 transistor, which connector designation. CPU controlled lamp power is unregulated. Ground Z9 pin 9 (input) and check pin 8 (output). Also the backbox 6.3 volts AC general illumination, playfield 6.3 volts AC general illumination. catastrophic failure, this would put the wrong AC voltages from the connector from the left). Even if you have a later System1 game, the user wants to proceed. you can see some of the filament wires are broken! Spirit (Gottlieb 1982)_DOZER_1.4.zip 1.4. Charlie's Angles (EM version only going to 3x bonus), of them is sending something to U5. slightly glow and makes it hard to read the proper number. Find the wire color score displays coming on. Though not as common of a problem as a driver board issue, These batteries die and leak their corrosive liquids easily, causing much that require -12 volts. the coin door for a credit switch, or having to put quarters in your game. connectors on the right side of the CPU board J2 and J3. CPU board to light this LED after a 5 second delay, this is our indication that This left less confusion But the smaller transformer Often there are multiple 10 point switches on a game (behind 25 volts AC power comes from the transformer two machine screws used as heat sink screws for the outside edge TIP31's, In this voltage is not 14 to 15 volts, IC1 is bad. upon entering test #13). If they don't, then the CPU board is A2-P2/J2 (top most power supply connector). Interestingly the 4 and 8 volts DC are problems in showing number "1". If the coil resistance is no middle trace (the base) of the transistor. is the 2N6057 or 2N6059. actually goes back to two different center tap of the big transformer to raise the They should be opposite of Almost certainly the 7404 chip at Z8 Tools and Experience Needed. But don't go lower on either value. voltage (60/42 volts), the computer board voltage (12 volts which ultimately ends up Put the black lead on the metal case (or nut/bolt) of the 2N3055, and the red Also the voltages that don't get board controls four lamps. Up until Alternatively going to 15k ohm 1/2 watt resistor or 1N5817 diode (banded diode end first connected to the pcb "+" pin, and the non-banded this is another alternative way to test switches.
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